Your new puppy will need a crate before he goes home with you. If this first crate is intended to last through to adulthood it should be approximately 27" x 21.5'" x20" high (this crate is not too big for a puppy at 8 weeks of age). My dogs do prefer the plastic crate over the wire one (Vari Kennel size Medium #2121531 page 130).
I intend to give you your puppy's first collar and lead so this is basic information and you will not need to put the collar and lead on the shopping list. The little puppy will need a collar and lead. I prefer an adjustable nylon collar (5/8" wide) with a quick-release buckle. This collar gives you a perfect fit as the puppy grows. One that adjusts from 8" to 12" is a good one to start with. When the dog is fully grown, a rolled leather collar (a 16" collar fits most adult Wheatens if they are not overweight) will not harm the coat if left on the dog. A 6' lead provides control when going for walks or to the vet. Once "Puppy Kindergarten" is completed a "Flexie Lead" keeps the dog secure while enjoying a relatively free romp in a park or other large area.
Food and dishes are also needed. I like stainless steel ones for the food and water. The food and water dishes should hold at least 20 ounces. The dishes that bolt or clip onto the crate are nice (Coop Cup, Silent Diner, cup #3302368 & holder #3302363 page 112) so the dog can have fresh water at all times. Some metal ones become toxic, so be careful when not using stainless steel. The puppy will be eating "Eukanuba Puppy Medium Breed". He/she should stay on this food until he/she is eight months to one year old and then switched to "Eukanuba Premium Performance Active".
A few chew toys are also required, such as nylon bone (Wishbone Reg #1830213 page 165), soft toys (Amigos Dogs #1821046 page 176), and a plastic pop/water bottle (Free) will entertain them. We give our dogs small twisted, not compressed or pressed, rawhide chew sticks (1/4" x 5") throughout their lives. Never knotted rawhide bones as the knots could be chewed off and swallowed causing an intestinal blockage and perhaps death. Rope toys and imitation lambs wool chew toys are also favourite toys for dogs of all ages. A Medium size Kong (Med Kong 3.5" #1811121 page 167) is a great investment and you can see how to use them at: http://www.kongcompany.com
All Welsh owners should spend a few minutes every other day combing the dog. This time spent with a puppy is used in training the pup to stand and enjoy grooming sessions and should not be ignored just because the puppy really does not need combing to keep his coat in good shape. Be sure to check his feet to be sure mats are not hiding between his toes and the pads of his feet. A grooming table (approx. 2' by 3'), (Table R.Rover 32 x 20 x 30h #9700303 page 70, includes arm and noose) grooming arm (4') and grooming noose (16" Deluxe Grooming Loop #440023 page 74) are essential for the care of a Wheaten. Over the past years I've found the best behaved dogs on the ground are the best behaved on the grooming table. Your new puppy will be spending the rest of his life being groomed so be kind to him and train your puppy to enjoy this time. The "Original Greyhound" comb (7 1/2") or the #1 All Systems Ultimate comb (7 1/2" Medium/Coarse #1820601 page 39)), in my book, is the single most important purchase you can make. Those that look alike are not the same, I have many bad purchases as proof. A pin brush (the one I sell) when used in conjunction with the comb will help keep the coat clean between baths. A soft slicker brush (Classic, Large #3359092 page 38) is used following combing to remove any dead or broken hair that the combing didn't remove. If you do not use the slicker brush the dog will tend to mat much more than if you do use one. Your dog will look soft and fluffy after using the slicker brush, but don't be fooled into thinking you can use this instead of combing. You will find a lot of mats the next time he is combed. It is a good idea to mist the coat with water prior to combing as this tends to help keep the hair from breaking.
Bathe your Welsh every three to four weeks using a tearless
dog shampoo, (Bio-Groom, Protein Lanolin #7120032 or 7120012 page 10). A good conditioner (Bio-Groom, Natural Oatmeal #7133012 page 10) An excellent conditioner for the Welsh coat is a human product - "Infusium 23, leave in treatment."
Read the directions for use on all these products. The Welsh
can be bathed whenever he gets dirty but be sure to rinse the
coat very well following the shampooing as soap left in the coat
can be irritating and drying. Use medium warm water to bath the
dog. You will need a shower extension attached to the shower,
with an extra long length or two lengths of hose attached together,
to rinse the dog properly in the bathtub or shower. Plug the ears
with cotton to prevent water from entering the ear canal.
Be sure the cotton is removed after the bath. Comb the dog completely
and thoroughly while still wet. Once the coat is dry, mats are
harder to find and much harder to remove. When wet, the mats look
like fluff and are easy to see, no matter how small they are.
Dry your dog with a hair dryer (your hair dryer is fine
to use), being careful not to burn his skin by either holding
the dryer too close or using too high of a heat setting. You will
need to comb him while he is drying. He will not be able to outside
until he is completely dry, including stomach and under arms (unless
in the summer heat) so be sure he is exercised before the bathing
process starts. I find they need to go outside after a bath as
well. In the heat of the summer, the Welsh can be allowed to air
dry outside, if combed after he/she is dry.
If you don't feel you can try your hand at trimming your dog,
you will find him easier to care for if you have him groomed by
someone else. The shorter the coat, the less time needs to be
spent in combing him and the bathing and drying takes less time
as well. Your puppy will need his first haircut at about six months
of age and every three months thereafter.
The nails should be trimmed prior to each bath, using nail
clippers (Miller Forge, orange handle #1800727 page 33) Have Kwik Stop (Classic #3304100 page 34) handy just in case you trim a bit to close. Be sure the hair between the pads of the feet is kept cut so he can get good footing when running and playing, or just out for a walk. If all the hair is removed from between the pads, in the winter, he will not collect ice under his feet, making walking painful.
The hair in the ear canals should be removed to ensure proper air circulation and prevent ear infections. R7 Ear Powder ( #3461801 page 27) will help you hold the hair and with this powder you can use you fingers and will not usually need to use hemostats (5.5" curved #3382704 page 27) to pull the hair out.
If you have any questions please call me (519) 853-1456.
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Supplies in Canada- Ren's Pets Depot, 4002 Trafalgar Road, Oakville, ON L6H 7B8, Local Ph: 905-257-4611, Toll Free: 1-866-736-7738, Fax: 905-257-4614, Email: info@renspets.com, www.renspets.com I registered with Ren's Pets depot to get you a 10% discount on your first purchase from them. If you decide to shop at Ren's you will need to tell them you are buying a Welsh Terrier puppy from Holweit to take advantage of these savings.
Toronto and area - Puppy Party Classes - Dealing With Dogs Phone 905-469-1555 http://www.dealingwithdogs.com/ Obedience Classes - Campaign Dog Obedience Phone 905-796-3647
There are four books I would suggest:
Good Owners Great Dogs by
Brian Kilcommons
How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live
With by Rutherford
and Neil
Culture Clash
by Jean Donaldson. Culture Clash doesn't have a good index of topics, but if you go to: http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/tccindex.htm
you can find a great index to Culture Clash.
A Dog and A Dolphin by Karen Pryor
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